Upper Schelde/Escaut: Gent ring - Mortagne-du-Nord (FR) (81 km)

From the Gent ring you continue upstream on the Schelde/Escaut to the south and southwest until you enter France. With the exception of Gent, Oudenaarde and Tournai, the river flows through farmland with the occasional nature preserve, harbor or industry. The route is essentially flat the whole distance, with the occasional lock (there are six in all) having in most cases a rise of only about a meter. The route is mostly well paved towpath, with short sections of street riding in Oudenaarde and Tournai. Between those cities there are some sections with some root damage, but that is now being repaired. Because the river is polluted, you will see no fishermen.

Flat land with numerous channels and ox bow lakes demonstrating that the river has had many courses. South of the E40 you ride through a mixture of farms, woods and nature preserves on very good to excellent pavement.

From bike path on the north side of the Gent ring, cross the Ottergembrug. This bridge, which is the first one west of the Merelbeke lock and just east of the E17 bridge, has been closed to most traffic. It is in effect a service road that leads you down to the towpath on the left (west) bank of the river. In this stretch you are actually on the Zwijnaarde canal - the river proper has another channel to the east.

In the first 1.5 km you pass under the E40 and then another bridge. From there you are in the countryside. In 800 m you see to the east the top of a weir control structure, and then the junction where the old channel of the Schelde turns to the east. Less than a km later you pass an unusual riverside pub. The next place you can cross the river is 6.5 km further, the Grenadiersbrug by Eke. Another 3 km brings you to the Gaveresbrug.

It is also possible to ride the east bank between the ring and Gavere, following a different channel to connect with the ring just east of the Merelbeke lock. The towpath on the east side is not as well maintained but still provides a reasonably good ride. In places there are also more flowers, as the verges are not as well cut as on the west side. The south side of the ring does not have a paved towpath, so from the junction with the ring you have a short street ride to the Prof. Vandepitte (Merelbeke) bridge.

One curious feature of the river in this area is the total lack of fishermen, scarcity of waterfowl, and occasional "no swimming" signs. The river is badly polluted - effectively dead. Less than half the wastewater produced in the Flemish region receives any treatment, and water pollution is a major problem. If you follow the east channel, you will cross an open sewer flowing into the river by a village about 1 km from the ring. The local pollution is on top of the heavy pollution load that comes from France.

The Flemish region is aware of the problem, and there is a major program for the construction of sewage treatment facilities. You will pass construction sites fairly frequently on your rides, including one just north of Gavere on the east bank.

Access: E40 east to Gent, then E17 south towards Kortrijk. First exit (Zevergem - number 9) and south on N60 to Eke. Left at the lights, towards Semmerzake. The bridge is less than 1 km from the traffic lights. As you approach the bridge ramp, turn left and follow the lane. Turn right at the first junction, to the embankment. Just past the bridge is a pub.

On the east bank just south of the Gavere bridge there is a sign that the embankment is closed to the south. In fact you can happily ride on south to Oudenaarde, albeit with some rough sections - root damage. After nearly 12 km you reach a double bridge, one rail and the other Lotheringenstr. (Note: 1 June 2003 Karel Roose reports that the east bank is blocked from here to the Oudenaarde city center. From the map it appears the best detour is to cross the river on the Lotheringen road bridge and follow the road as it curves south and in a few hundred meters joins Rodeloosstr. Follow Rodeloosstr. south along the river to the town center - about 2 km.) About 300 km past the twin bridges you can turn left (east) and then at the first junction left again to an archaeological dig at the site of the former abbey of Ename. After a visit there, continue on down the river to a side harbor. Follow the harbor to the end (bike shop across the street) and turn right on the road 300 m to the pop-up bridge near the center of Oudenaarde.

The west bank south of Gravere is in better condition, although it too has some sections of root damage.

The town of Oudenaarde (old earth, but perhaps derived from a name - Aldo's land) is a pleasant place to take a break, particularly as it is blessed with three local breweries. The ornate town hall (tourist information in the ground floor) graces a market square with several pubs and restaurants. The one called "The Pub" has an excellent selection of local brews and good small meals.

Access: E40 to Gent, E17 towards Kortrijk, first exit towards Oudenaarde.

Oudenaarde - Vaulx bridge (42 km)

On the east bank, the towpath south of Oudenaarde is generally very good, with some short sections with mild root damage. (And the west bank is blocked - Karel Roose 1 June 2003.) 9 km south of Oudenaarde you reach the "Carpe Diem" (roughly, enjoyable day in Latin) pub. This is a great place for a break. In addition to 4 beers on tap, their menu lists 100 others in bottle. They advertise local specialty cooking, but I have not tried it. Open Friday, Saturday and Sunday, plus in July and August Wednesday and Thursday.

4 km later you reach the unusual Waterhoek bridge - which has flower boxes. The bridge is based on a girder designed by Flemish engineer Arthur Vierendeel in 1896. The girder was used in numerous bridges, including the original 1906 Waterhoek bridge and its 1960s replacement. The 1906 bridge was a central character in the novel de Teleurgang van de Waterhoek discussed in the Durme River section. (background information from Karel Roose January 2003)

8.5 km after that is the Pottes bridge.

On the west bank, about 2.4 km south of Oudenaarde you reach a section about 3 km long with light to moderate root damage. 4 km after the end of that section you reach the Kluisbergenbrug. Ahead there is a harbor. The shortest route is to turn right just after you pass under the bridge approach, then first left and first right to the head of the harbor. Cross the end of the harbor and turn left along it and back to the river.

A little after 1 km later, after passing a lock, you are opposite a coal power plant. To the right is a road that leads into the village of Waarmaarde (warm earth, but according to the Gids voor Vlaanderen perhaps derived form "place of the dam"). If you turn right towards the village, and then right after crossing a ditch, you reach a small archeological museum. Just to the north of the museum, in what is now a well field, was a Roman settlement. It was apparently a way station for travelers, and a collection point for grain grown locally. The museum (open weekends and during school breaks) contains a selection of articles found on the site, and pictures and diagrams of digs.

The town church dates back at least to the 13^th century, although the newest part (choir extension) is 20^th.

Continuing south, in about 4 km you reach a marked detour around a container terminal and sand and gravel yard. Follow the "jaagpad" and LF30a bike route signs. 3 km after the end of the detour you reach Bossuit and the junction with the Bossuit-Kortrijk canal. Just south of the bridge over the latter, on the left is a pump station that has been turned into a bit of a museum. In August 1998 there was also an exhibition by the Flemish water supply company, including projects for reducing water pollution.

About 4 km past Bossuit you reach the Pont de Pottes (Pottes bridge) and the end of pavement on the left (west) bank. Cross to the right bank. Just over 2 km south of the Pottes bridge you reach a lock, with no legal provision for crossing the river. 800 m later you see on the opposite bank the mouth of the Espierres-Roubaix canal. Half a km later you start a stretch of nice new (paved late 1997 and early 1998) cement pavement. The Warcoing bridge is 1.2 km ahead, and the Pecq bridge 1.9 km further. (August 1998)

Tournai Pont des Trous
source: Karel Roose 2004

5 km after the Pecq bridge you reach a lock. Soon thereafter you reach Tournai, and some street running. The river through central Tournai is narrower than the rest, and one-way for larger barges. 3 km after the lock (and after passing the medieval water gate to the city - Pont des Trous - 13th century) you reach a most unusual bridge - Pont Levant Notre Dame. When closed it appears to be a normal, fixed bridge at the same level as the roads along he canal. But then it "pops up" about 3 m to allow barges to pass.

Tournai Pont Levant Notre Dame - down and up
source: Karel Roose 2004

South of Tournai the right (east) bank is not ridable, so cross this bridge. You can go up the hill to sightsee in Tournai (particularly the cathedral), or turn left (south) to continue along the river. You enjoy a short ride on cobblestones and then along a paved street, but in one km you are again on a paved towpath. 2.4 km later you reach Vaulx bridge. Just before the bridge are the massive remains of an early cement clinker kiln, Four St-André. In one of the entrances you can seen an explanation of how it worked, in French. (April 1998)

This was one of over 130 kilns that produced Portland cement, a major industry in this area at the beginning of the 19th century. The earliest is from 1720. This form of cement production ceased to be competitive after WW2, and most of the kilns have been destroyed. A few are being preserved. ("Victor" 5-6 August 2000)

Vaulx/Chercq bridge to Mortagne-du-Nord (FR) (12 km)

The area between Vaulx and Antoing has long made its living from rocks, as is evident from the many quarries and stone-built houses. Some of the quarries are still worked, and there are some massive modern cement plants. Along the river you see numerous remains that look like medieval castles - except that most are abandoned 19th century industrial establishments. One exception is the real remains of a small XIth century fortress near the end of the bridge in Vaulx. It is called the Julius Caesar and was built on the remains of a Roman fortress. The river in this area was an for many centuries an important boundary: between Flanders and Hainaut, France and the Holy Roman Empire, and later France and the Spanish Netherlands.

South of Antoing the river flows through flatlands, some now part of the cross-border Hainaut international park.

From the Vaulx/Chercq bridge to Antoing, you can ride either bank. However, the right (east) bank has some active industry and port areas - the other side is cleaner. From Antoing to the border (7.5 km) both sides are fine. However, on the east bank you have a 1.5 km detour where the Nimy - Blaton - Péronnes Canal joins the Escaut near Hollain.

South of Hollain the pavement on the west bank suddenly ends at French border. You have one km of soft road before a grain storage facility and then the town of Maulde. It is best to cross the bridge at Hollain and continue down the east bank to Mortagne-du-Nord. You have a fine paved path to the border (remains of a barrier) and then 1.7 km of so-so road to Mortagne-du-Nord.

At this point the Schelde heads SE, while the branch Scarpe (also canalized) curves south and eventually to the west. The west bank of the Scarpe has a hard path by Maulde. The Schelde SE of Mortagne-du-Nord has a soft road on the south bank. (March 1998)

Access: E42/A16 towards Tournai (from Mons), exit 32 to Vaulx.

Last updated 14 August 2004

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