Maas River/Juliana Canal: Maastricht - Maasbracht (43 km)

Grensmaas
the Juliana Canal follows a straight line just east of the river
Source: Route 66

The Maas valley, or Grensmaas (border Mass), offers numerous pleasant cycling routes. The road network is fairly dense, but there are no significant populations or industries (except sand and gravel extraction, which use the waterways) to attract traffic to the strip of land between the Juliana and Maas, or on the southern half of the route between the Maas and Zuid Willemsvaart. The authorities on both sides of the border have posted an extensive network of recommending cycling routes, with network maps located at many junctions. You can also follow the LF 3 long distance route. Even fairly minor highways often have parallel bicycle roadways - on both sides. And if you are picking up countries, it is a short ride from Maaseik in Belgium through Susteren in Nederland to Isenbruch in Germany. The GeoCart map is fairly accurate for the roads, but pretty useless for bike paths.

This is beautiful countryside. The gardens of the houses are all prepared for the photographer from House and Garden, and the fields, cows, ostriches, goats and sheep seem groomed for whatever magazine follows their lives. There are occasional pubs, some serving local brews.

From just north of Maastricht to near Maasbracht the Maas River forms a curly border between Belgium and the Netherlands for some 70 km. Navigation was always a problem, with shifting sandbanks and channels. Most summers the river was not navigable south of Maasbracht. Since 1843 the border between Belgium and the Netherlands has been the deepest part of the Maas channel.

The first bypass for this troublesome section was the Zuid Willemsvaart, built 1823 - 1826. After the southern part of that canal passed into Belgian hands, the traders of Maastricht had to wait for a century for a route through Netherlands territory.

Then coal was discovered in Limburg, and major mines built on both sides of the border. Coal from the Dutch mines was brought by rail to Maasbracht, which gained a massive harbor complex. Some of the complex machinery used to load barges is still moored in the harbors off the river to the west of the city.

Construction on the Juliana Kanaal began in 1925 and lasted for 10 years. It was a massive project, with much of the waterway on high (up to about 30 m) embankments above the fields. It follows eastern edge of the Maas valley, at times separated by only a few hundred meters from the river.

South junction of Juliana Canal (to the right) and the Maas
photo by Karel Roose 10 Sep 2004
From the north edge of Maastricht and the beginning of the Juliana Kanaal, the Maas remains a wild river. Dikes are in places hundreds of meters from the normal channel, with the intervening land used for crops or grazing. In many places the dikes are fenced, or have no reasonable cycling surfaces. Most of my route is along the Juliana, although the Maas is often in sight. Interestingly, most of the direct route is not included in the signposted network. Perhaps that is because various sections are posted as closed by the Rijkswaterstaat - a warning that is generally ignored. (Last sentence added by Karel Roose 12 Sep 2004)

From the Sint-Servaasbrug in central Maastricht start north along the east (right) bank. A couple of hundred meters of cobblestone road bring you to another bridge and wide paved towpath. Past that bridge is a new park, on top of a parking garage built around 1998. (I got a flat there, from a piece of barbed wire.) You have about 1 km of nice bike route before the next bridge - the north ring. The next 1 km is on a road with some traffic, to a traffic circle just north of the junction of the Maas and Juliana on the west side. The KP on the Juliana start counting up from this junction.

North of the circle on the east bank is a harbor/industrial area that forces you away from the canal onto a highway. If you follow this route you have 6 km, some on road with fairly heavy traffic, before you are back to the canal at the Bunde bridge. It is better to change sides. From the circle take the road closest to river. It climbs gently to a bridge across the canal at an emergency lock. Cross the bridge.
Bunde bridge
photo by Karel Roose 10 Sep 2004

On the west bank follow the road. It takes you south a short distance and then makes a wide curve to the west and back to the north along the Maas. The first town is Borgharen. The castle on the north side is on a site occupied since the 12th century. Most of the current structure dates from after the 80 Years War, the square side towers to 1483. The next town is Itteren. Turn right (east) at the church back to the Juliana Canal at Bunde bridge. (April 1999)

North from Bunde bridge you have on both sides of the canal a fine, but quite narrow, paved path along the top of the dyke for nearly 4 km to the Geulle Bridge. If there is many people or cyclists on the path, you might feel better on the road that runs below the dyke on the west side. There is little traffic, at least on weekdays.

Geulle a/d Maas:
St Martinus Kerk
photo by Karel Roose 10 Sep 2004
You can continue north along the canal, but I suggest an alternative: head for the church you see on the west side of the canal. Before you reach the town there is a kasteel with a moat (private property). Then you enter the town of Geulle a/d (on the) Maas (not to be confused with the town of Geulle a short distance to the east). (The GeoCart map says, incorrectly, that this village is Boorsem a/d Maas). St Martinus Kerk is a very interesting piece that seems to be quite old in parts and new in others. I have not found anything on its history.

At the end of the village you can head west to a pedestrian ferry across the Maas. On the road where you turn on the path to the ferry is a bit of art showing the high water marks of 1993 and 1995.

Otherwise, from the village follow the bike route signs for junction 45 north along farm roads. From the church to junction 45 (the Elsloo bridge) is about 2 km. (July 1999)

The town of Elsloo on the east bank of the canal is worth a short detour. Just south of the bridge is a castle and park. The cobblestone road up the hill from the bridge is bordered by stone buildings, some probably quite old. (April 1999)
Juliana Canal by Elsloo
photo by Karel Roose 10 Sep 2004

If you cross to Elsloo and then continue north, follow the roads to Stein. Otherwise, return to the west bank to continue north.

The next major feature is the Scharbergbrug (E314) viaduct across the Maas flood plain. There is a bicycle lane on the bridge which you can access by scrambling up the embankment on the east side. Beware that you can not get down on the west side for over 3 km, by the Zuid Willemsvaart.

Continuing on the Juliana, the next bridge is about 1.5 km, the brug Stein. If you are ready for a break, follow the road on the west end of the Stein bridge south for a few hundred meters into the village of Kleine Meers. There is a very nice pub.

Maas Overzet ferry
photo by Tim Freh October 2005
The next 8 km, to brug Born, are fairly unremarkable. The east bank north of Stein is closed by a harbor/industrial area. The west bank continues to offer a choice of the narrow (1 meter) path on the dyke and a wider bike path below the embankment. There is a pedestrian/cycle ferry at Berg a/d Maas, south of Born. It operates only in the warmer months. A cafe by the ferry landing has unfortunately closed. (Tim Freh 21 October 2005)
Born lock
photo by Karel Roose 10 Sep 2004

North of Born the east bank is closed by a major port activity, most of the land now being devoted to distributing new cars. Stay on the west side, either on the narrow paved path on the dyke or the paved service road below. One km north of Born bridge is a harbor now devoted mostly to live-aboard barges and boats. There is also a factory manufacturing large metal objects which are moved by water. On the north side of the west end of the harbor is the village of Schipperskerk (boatmen's church). The church is an odd structure, age uncertain.

Back on the canal, the next 8 km offer pleasant landscapes but little of specific interest. There are occasional bridges and you could cross to the east bank, but it is bare of trees. Then you enter an area of sand and gravel mining, started in the 1960's, which has created a number of large lakes. The Maas valley from here to and beyond Maasbracht has become a major center for water recreation.

Four km past the first qravel pit is the Maasbracht lock and bridge. Cross the bridge and turn left into the town. It is quite small but includes a surprising amount of industry related to the water - particularly boat yards. There is a museum devoted to the Maas and water transportation. (Open weekends during the warmer months.) The church has an ancient tower.

The technical end of the Juliana is at the lock, with the harbor considered part of the Maas. The actual junction between the barge traffic coming out of the river and that coming from the canal is three km further north just past the E25 bridge. (July 1999, verified by Karel Roose 10 Sep 2004)

To continue north, follow the LF 3 bike route - which you join at the Maasbracht lock.

Last updated 9 December October 2005

Copyright Dan Gamber, 1998 - 2005
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